Brussels Belgium and car hire
Car hire in Belgium is available from Brussels Airport.
Life in a European melting pot is nothing new for the people of Brussels. Through the centuries invaders and occupiers have come and gone, some with a whimper and others with more of a bang, but the natives have developed a healthy, good humoured cynicism that helps see them through the crises and pervades everyday life.
It is no shock nowadays, of course, to catch the babble of a dozen foreign tongues as you revive yourself with a glass of beer at one of the myriad pavement cafes, for Brussels has established itself as the capital of NATO, the European Economic Community and Western capitalism. This newly found international status has swept in with it a flood of bureaucrats, Eurocrats, businessmen, army chiefs and property developers, with a host of attendant offshoots.
But though some 230,000 foreigners almost a quarter of the total population now mingle multicultural on the broad cosmopolitan avenues of modern Brussels, the enigmatic spirit of the heart of Belgium is still very much in evidence.
The idiosyncrasies of a thousand years of European culture have helped to shape both people and city they look back on invasions by Roman legions, Spanish Inquisitors, the Habsburg armies, Napoleon, the Kaiser and Hitler. But Brussels has not been cowed into insipidness. Tucked away behind the skyscrapers there is a lively brew of boisterous old fashioned working class districts and elegant bourgeois neighbourhoods, lusty taverns and superb restaurants, museums steeped in history and parks aglow with colour. The people of Brussels have a deep seated allegiance to Catholicism but forces sacred are balanced by an exuberantly profane attitude to life.
Things to do in Brussels and a brief history
They revel in revelries, especially if they involve dressing up and cavorting through the colourful past. Many of the festivals and processions stem from religious roots, but the most flamboyant are the purely secular, which date back to proud civic parades before visiting rulers during a Joyeuse Entree, or Ommegang.Brussels' architectural glories reflect the importance attached to the municipal, material side of life the spirit of prosperity in the shape of the magnificent Town Hall and fascinating guildhalls of the Grand Place.
And the symbol of modern Brussels, the enormous molecular model known as the Atomium, erected for the 1958 World Fair encapsulates its progressive 20thcentury prosperity. The Fair's slogan was Balir Ie monde pour l'homme (Building the World for Mankind), with the emphasis on building.
In keeping with its international political and economic role, Brussels is officially bilingual, with both Flemish and French street signs and public notices. Bilingualism is also a reflection on the Belgian split, between Dutch speaking Flemings in the northern region and French speaking Walloons in the Southall 103 though the official equality in language does not prevent somewhat stormy relations between the two groups.
Despite internal French Walloon squabbles and the bureaucratic invasion, Brussels remains a city of good beer and good cheer, the province of the happy cartoon adventurer Tintin and the great painter Pieter Breughel, whose solid, serene, yet sceptical subjects are still personified in the city's narrow backstreets four centuries later.
To appreciate the real Brussels, you have to appreciate the combination of prosperous modern living and the power of tradition; the festive rituals of historical pageantry, which are played out with such relish beneath the gleaming sky scraping symbols of post industrial success.
On any meanderings through the streets of Brussels keep an eye open for the details, for there are many delightful minutiae in the most unlikely places. Old shop signs; delicate wrought iron railings, banisters and even butchers' hooks; street corner shrines in the walls holding effigies of the Virgin Mary and the saints all offer further insights into the reality of Brussels.
Grand Place Brussels
The focal point of Brussels' daily life and history, is a joyous architectural Glebration of the city's civic pride. Sit outside in one of the cafes and absorb the riot of colour in the flower market along with the throngs of natives and tourists. If you visit in July you may catch the Ommegang, the great parade of the patridan families' descendants, While at any time you're likely to see an openair theatre performance or concert held there. The square's harmony of Gothic, renaissance and Baroque was achieved when it was planned and re built after Louis XlV's attack on the city in 1695.
Only the graceful 295foot (90m.) tower of the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) somehow escaped destruction and still soars over the square as a testament to the 15 th century architectural talents of Jan van Ruysbroeck. The Town Hall's Gothic bulk derives much of its charm from the off centre placing of the door and tower. Its carving also merits close inspection, and a breathtaking view of the city makes the long haul up the tower well worthwhile.
The magnificent Renaissance guild houses around the Town Hall are the most concrete evidence imaginable for the historical importance of the craftsmen and merchants. Number 10, L' Arbre d'Or (The Golden Tree), once housed the brewers' guild and is now the home of the brewery museum. Opposite the Town Hall is the Musee Communal, displayed in the inelegant 19thcentury neo Gothic Maison du Roi, a must for any visitor to Brussels. The ground floor contains the original carvings preserved from the facade of the Town Hall, and the next floor has a fine collection of 18th century Brussels pottery to rival that of Delft.
The top floor, however, draws the biggest crowdsit contains the vast and ever growing wardrobe of Mannekenpis, contributed by visitors from all over the world. The Mannekenpis, an irreverent little statue, can be found relieving himself into a fountain on the Rue de l'Etuve; he has become the worldwide mascot of Brusselsas is all too evident from the plethora of souvenir bricabrac on which he cheekily displays himself.
Attractions in Brussels Belgium
Just north of the Grand Place is L'Ilot Sacre (The Sacred Isle), a treasured enclave of historic Brussels preserved from the ravages of the property developers. Many of the tiny backstreets are now for pedestrians only, hiding a veritable profusion of delights for any sensualist beautiful Renaissance houses, many converted into excellent restaurants, others containing art galleries and craft shops.
In the summer, strolling musicians, acrobats and flower sellers add to the pleasures of this little haven. Wander through the complex of glass vaulted arcades of the Galeries Saint Hubert, a fascinating array of shops and restaurants off the Rue de I'Ecuyer; then past the Theatre de la Monnaie back to the realm of 20th century Brussels the main shopping streets, Boulevard Anspach and Rue Neuve. The Cathedral Saint Michel is worth a visit too. The choir of this imposing Gothic edifice dates back to 1226; the nave and chapter are from the 14th and 15th centuries, and the chapels were added later.
The two towers, designed by Jan van Ruysbroeck, echo his soaring masterpiece on the Town Hall, while inside, in the diffuse light of the fine stained glass windows, is the Chapeau du Saint Sacrament. This artistic gem was built in 1540 to commemorate a miracle now acknowledged as false and unjust by the archbishopric. The legend is that in 1370 some Jews stole the sacraments and on Good Friday they stabbed them in ritual defilement, whereupon blood spurted from the sacrament's wounds. Accused of this crime, four Jewish families were burned at the stake in Brussels (hatred of the Jews was rife at this time). In spite of the loathing that motivated their construction and the gruesome facts that surround them, the tapestries and stained glass windows are magnificent pieces of artistry.
Le Sablon Brussels Belgium
South of the Grand Place lies an elegant and peaceful relic of pre19th-century Brussels, the Sablon area. Around the Place du Grand Sablon nestle antique shops and chic restaurants, while on the other side of the church of Notre Dame du Sablon, the Square du Petit Sablon is a welcome garden retreat in which to sit and muse upon the Sablon of days gone by. The 19thcentury bronze inhabitants of the square include the great martyrs of Belgium, Counts Egmont and Hoorn (who were executed for their part in the resistance movement against Spain), as well as forty eight little statues representing the medieval guilds, each identifiable by the item he is clutching.
The church itself, which took a hundred years to build, is a masterpiece of the 15th and 16th centuries and worth savouring in its own right, rather than for any particular treasures inside. However, don't miss the charming statue of the patron saint of huntsmen, St. Hubert, accompanied by a stag with a hanging Christ between its horns. This stands just beyond the porch; there is also a beautiful Baroque pulpit inside the church.
Les Marolles To the north and west of Le Sablon is the working class area of the Maroues, whose street names indicate the types of crafts once practised therefore instance, Rue des Orfevres (goldsmiths) and des Chaisiers (chair makers). The streets themselves are always fascinating places In which to watch the vigour of daily goings on in the district, and to try to identify the hotchpotch of languages Flemish, French, Spanish, with Italian, German and Hebrew thrown in that make up the rich dialect of the inhabitants.
This is the area where the great populist painter Pieter Breughel lived and died. His home was probably no. 132, rue Haute, a fine gabled house which often holds exhibitions of Breughel's paintings. His marble mausoleum is just up the road, in the Gothic church of Notre Dame de la Chapeau. Wandering southwards, you cannot fail to come across the enormous hulk of the Palais de Justice, the biggest building erected in the 19th century; the bombastic epitome of Belgium's golden age of expansionism. Down the Rue de la Regence is the Place Royale with the Musees Royaux des Beaux Arts the homes of III some of the Low Countries most stunning and valuable art treasures.
The Musee d'Art Ancien contains pieces dating up to the end of the 18th century, and began life in 1799 as a depository for everything the French couldn't carry back to Paris. Much was retrieved from France after Waterloo, and there are now around 1200 paintings, mostly from the great Flemish schools. The celebrated names represented there include Roger van de Weyden (1399-1464), Dirk Bouts (c. 1415-75) and Hieronymus Bosch (c. 1450-1516), whose Crucifixion is a relatively modest and conventional work compared with his usual macabre style. There is a fine collection of Pieter Breughel's work, including The Fall of Icarus, while Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640) occupies a whole gallery.
The morbidly fascinating imagination of Ribera mayor may not be characteristic of the 16thcentury Spanish occupiers one hopes not, looking at his Apollo Flaying Marsyas. Apollo has discarded his lyre and is calmly and gracefully skinning Marsyas alive.
The Modern Art Museum Brussels
The Musee d'Art Moderne holds exhibitions of 19th and 20th-century art in rotation. Regularly on show are such masters as Felicien Rops, Rene Magritte and Paul Delvaux, each taking a potshot at the bourgeoisie in characteristically satiric or surreal fashion. There are also a number of fine French painters. Brussels' other museums span a wide range of interests those whose fancy lightly turns to other civilizations and cultures should not miss the astonishing panorama of ancient and modern arts on show in the Musees Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire in the Parc du Cinquantenaire.
Music lovers should make time for the Musee Instrumental on the Rue de la Regence, which contains rare European instruments dating back to the 16th century, and some weird and wonderful pieces from China, Java, Sumatra and Mexico. Further out of the city, the House of Erasmus in the borough of Anderlecht is a charming and tranquil combination of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It houses a fascinating museum of the philosopher's career. Also in Anderlecht is the Beguinage, a 16th-century nunnery where eight nuns lived and worked at the budding lace industry.
Parks in Brussels and Belgium car hire
You will find yourself spoilt for choice, as far as parks in Brussels are concerned. The Parc de Bruxelles lies in the centre of the city, an elegant area of fountains, and Baroque and Rococo statues. The botanic gardens of the Domaine Royal de Laeken are a delight in spring and summer, and the royal greenhouses are beautifully illuminated at night during May. But the favourite of the inhabitants of Brussels is the Bois de la Cambre at the far end of the Avenue Louise, merely the municipal tip of the gigantic Foret de Soignes, which extends across the southeastern corner of Brussels.
The Bois offers boating lakes, tearooms, restaurants in a setting of regal beech trees; the perfect place to rest after a hard day's pavement pounding.
Day trips from Brussels Belgium
There are a number of easy day trips from Brussels: Waterloo is closest, only 12 Y2 miles (20 km.) south. Slightly further afield are Antwerp, 29 miles (46 km.) north, and Ghent, about 37 miles (60 km.) away. Bruges is 31 miles (49 km.) west of Ghent but is also highly recommended, and from there Os tend and the coastal resorts are easily accessible.
Antwerp Belgium
Antwerp is now a thriving and animated port. Port tours leave from the Steen, the castle on the right bank of the River Schelde. The town was the 113 home of Peter Paul Rubens during his heyday. The Cathedral, well worth a visit for its Rubens masterpieces alone, also boasts a majestic open stonework steeple 400 feet (122 m.) high. Groenplaats, south of the cathedral and at one time its cemetery, is now a colourful square edged by openair cafes, with a central statue of Rubens. And Rubens' house itself, at Rubensstraat 911, is an unexpectedly sumptuous affair - clear evidence of the painter's success.
For a fascinating glimpse into Antwerp's golden agethe 16th century visit the PlantinMoretus Museum (Vrijdagmarkt 22), where Christopher Plantin lived and set up his great printing press. The whole place presents a most informative history of books, printing and the evolution of handwriting. The omnipresent Rubens may be enjoyed at the Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten, which has a firstclass collection of Flemish art. Antwerp also has marvellous Zoological Gardens and a couple of lovely parks, Nachtegalen and Middelheimthe latter with an open-air sculpture museum which includes pieces by Rodin and Henry Moore.
Ghent Belgium
Ghent should be appreciated for the first time from the middle of the Saint Michielsbrug (St. Michael's Bridge), a splendid vantage point from which to study the city. The magnificent Gothic and Renaissance merchants' houses lie on Graslei (Grass Quay) to the right and Koornlei (Corn Quay) to the left of the bridge works of art in colour, form and detail. Also visible from the bridge, to the north, is the Gravensteen, the 9th to 12th century castle of the counts of Flanders, which has a dubious collection of sickeningly imaginative instruments of torture.
The other castle, Geraard de Duivelsteen, in Bauwens square, dates from the 13th century and has an equally nasty reputation. Back towards St. Michael's Bridge is the 15th century LakenhaUe (Drapers' Hall) with its great belfry, the architectural evidence of Ghent's ancient wealth. The multilingual sight and sound show in the huge hall sets the historical scene very well.
The Museum voor Schone Kunsten houses two of Hieronymus Bosch's best known surreal paintings Saint Jerome and The Bearing of The Cross. Not to be missed in Brussels is the Museum van Oudheden, housed in the medieval Abbey of Bijloke. It is a haven of tranquility, far removed from the bloody history of the torture chambers in the old castles.
Eating Out in Belgium
When it comes to matters gastronomic the Belgians do nothing by halves their reputation for sturdy appetites is nourished on the enormous portions and generous second helpings found in most restaurants; and quality is certainly not sacrificed to quantity. The stock caricature of the ruddy cheeked Belgian munching stoically through an unvarying diet of mussels and chips is, of course, far from accurate but fresh North Sea mussels steamed in a seasoned broth, and crisp, succulent pommes frites are delectable everyday fare. To make the most of the robust flavour of Brussels keep an eye open for such specialities as beer soup, delicious oysters from Zeeland, or potjesvlees, a cold veal, pork and rabbit pate, to start your meal.
Main course delicacies include anguille au vertbaby eel with shredded herbs. Waterzooi is not to be missed a fish stew with herbs, leeks and cream. A good variation on the theme is the Brussels version using chicken instead of fish. Beef casseroled in beer ( carbonnade); hare or rabbit served with prunes (lievre or lapin a lafiamande); boiled goose and a variety of powerful wine soaked game dishes involving venison (chevreuil), pheasant (faisan) or hareall should be sampled, though the richness of Belgian food makes a strong stomach a useful acquisition.
The figure conscious must be staunch indeed to bypass Belgian desserts waffles (gaujies) warm from the street stalls; apple pancake (crepe aux pommes); larle au sucre (sugar tart) for the really sweet toothed, or the famous spec loos, king and queen shaped gingerbreads.
Drinks in Belgium
Brewing is an art form for the Belgians, and there are a variety of beers to be savoured, preferably from the small scale breweries which still thrive. Kriek, for instance, is flavoured with cherries during fermentation; and while most beers are of the lager type, the strong dark malt Trappiste is brewed around Antwerp. liS Spirits and liqueurs are not sold in bars, so to sample Peguet, the local slightly sweet gin, you must visit a cafe labelled as a private club (cercle prive) and sign a membership form, or order it with a meal at a restaurant.
Shopping in Belgium
Everything you ever needed is on display in this shop window of the world at a price. The enormous international selection of goods and the cosmopolitan clientele make Brussels an expensive place to shop, and it's often hard to pick up authentic Brussels memorabilia when searching for mementos and presents.
The best value goods are Belgium's own products. The Belgians are masters of lace and tapestry making. Much is machine produced nowadays but a little detective work will often yield exquisite handmade results. Try the Sablon antique dealers for tapestry. Glassware, crystal and pewter are all crafted in Belgium; fine leather goods are a speciality of Brussels itself; and of course for those who have the wherewithal the city still revels in its reputation as a centre for good jewellery. All these products can be found in the chic boutiques of the Avenue Louise, as well as their more popular neighbours at the Marolles and the department stores of Rue Neuve and Boulevard Adolphe Max.
But it is more rewarding for many people to pick up antique or secondhand versions, by browsing in the antique shops of the Sablon or haggling over prices in the flea markets of the Marolles. Indeed the markets are a joy not to be missed flowers every day; the Sunday bird market in the Grand Place; antiques and books at the weekend the Place du Grand Sablon; the Midi market at the Gare du Midi on Sunday mornings.
No chocophile can pass by the chance to partake of Brussels' expensive but exquisite pralines, some of the finest and smoothest filled chocolates in the world. The arrays of mouth watering biscuits such as spicy spec loos always go down exceedingly well and extremely quickly as presents. In fact, from a nation as conscious of the wellbeing of stomach and taste buds as the Belgians, nothing could be more appropriate than a selection of their delicious comestibles for the folks back home.
Life in a European melting pot is nothing new for the people of Brussels. Through the centuries invaders and occupiers have come and gone, some with a whimper and others with more of a bang, but the natives have developed a healthy, good humoured cynicism that helps see them through the crises and pervades everyday life.
It is no shock nowadays, of course, to catch the babble of a dozen foreign tongues as you revive yourself with a glass of beer at one of the myriad pavement cafes, for Brussels has established itself as the capital of NATO, the European Economic Community and Western capitalism. This newly found international status has swept in with it a flood of bureaucrats, Eurocrats, businessmen, army chiefs and property developers, with a host of attendant offshoots.
But though some 230,000 foreigners almost a quarter of the total population now mingle multicultural on the broad cosmopolitan avenues of modern Brussels, the enigmatic spirit of the heart of Belgium is still very much in evidence.
The idiosyncrasies of a thousand years of European culture have helped to shape both people and city they look back on invasions by Roman legions, Spanish Inquisitors, the Habsburg armies, Napoleon, the Kaiser and Hitler. But Brussels has not been cowed into insipidness. Tucked away behind the skyscrapers there is a lively brew of boisterous old fashioned working class districts and elegant bourgeois neighbourhoods, lusty taverns and superb restaurants, museums steeped in history and parks aglow with colour. The people of Brussels have a deep seated allegiance to Catholicism but forces sacred are balanced by an exuberantly profane attitude to life.
Things to do in Brussels and a brief history
They revel in revelries, especially if they involve dressing up and cavorting through the colourful past. Many of the festivals and processions stem from religious roots, but the most flamboyant are the purely secular, which date back to proud civic parades before visiting rulers during a Joyeuse Entree, or Ommegang.Brussels' architectural glories reflect the importance attached to the municipal, material side of life the spirit of prosperity in the shape of the magnificent Town Hall and fascinating guildhalls of the Grand Place.
And the symbol of modern Brussels, the enormous molecular model known as the Atomium, erected for the 1958 World Fair encapsulates its progressive 20thcentury prosperity. The Fair's slogan was Balir Ie monde pour l'homme (Building the World for Mankind), with the emphasis on building.
In keeping with its international political and economic role, Brussels is officially bilingual, with both Flemish and French street signs and public notices. Bilingualism is also a reflection on the Belgian split, between Dutch speaking Flemings in the northern region and French speaking Walloons in the Southall 103 though the official equality in language does not prevent somewhat stormy relations between the two groups.
Despite internal French Walloon squabbles and the bureaucratic invasion, Brussels remains a city of good beer and good cheer, the province of the happy cartoon adventurer Tintin and the great painter Pieter Breughel, whose solid, serene, yet sceptical subjects are still personified in the city's narrow backstreets four centuries later.
To appreciate the real Brussels, you have to appreciate the combination of prosperous modern living and the power of tradition; the festive rituals of historical pageantry, which are played out with such relish beneath the gleaming sky scraping symbols of post industrial success.
On any meanderings through the streets of Brussels keep an eye open for the details, for there are many delightful minutiae in the most unlikely places. Old shop signs; delicate wrought iron railings, banisters and even butchers' hooks; street corner shrines in the walls holding effigies of the Virgin Mary and the saints all offer further insights into the reality of Brussels.
Grand Place Brussels
The focal point of Brussels' daily life and history, is a joyous architectural Glebration of the city's civic pride. Sit outside in one of the cafes and absorb the riot of colour in the flower market along with the throngs of natives and tourists. If you visit in July you may catch the Ommegang, the great parade of the patridan families' descendants, While at any time you're likely to see an openair theatre performance or concert held there. The square's harmony of Gothic, renaissance and Baroque was achieved when it was planned and re built after Louis XlV's attack on the city in 1695.
Only the graceful 295foot (90m.) tower of the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) somehow escaped destruction and still soars over the square as a testament to the 15 th century architectural talents of Jan van Ruysbroeck. The Town Hall's Gothic bulk derives much of its charm from the off centre placing of the door and tower. Its carving also merits close inspection, and a breathtaking view of the city makes the long haul up the tower well worthwhile.
The magnificent Renaissance guild houses around the Town Hall are the most concrete evidence imaginable for the historical importance of the craftsmen and merchants. Number 10, L' Arbre d'Or (The Golden Tree), once housed the brewers' guild and is now the home of the brewery museum. Opposite the Town Hall is the Musee Communal, displayed in the inelegant 19thcentury neo Gothic Maison du Roi, a must for any visitor to Brussels. The ground floor contains the original carvings preserved from the facade of the Town Hall, and the next floor has a fine collection of 18th century Brussels pottery to rival that of Delft.
The top floor, however, draws the biggest crowdsit contains the vast and ever growing wardrobe of Mannekenpis, contributed by visitors from all over the world. The Mannekenpis, an irreverent little statue, can be found relieving himself into a fountain on the Rue de l'Etuve; he has become the worldwide mascot of Brusselsas is all too evident from the plethora of souvenir bricabrac on which he cheekily displays himself.
Attractions in Brussels Belgium
Just north of the Grand Place is L'Ilot Sacre (The Sacred Isle), a treasured enclave of historic Brussels preserved from the ravages of the property developers. Many of the tiny backstreets are now for pedestrians only, hiding a veritable profusion of delights for any sensualist beautiful Renaissance houses, many converted into excellent restaurants, others containing art galleries and craft shops.
In the summer, strolling musicians, acrobats and flower sellers add to the pleasures of this little haven. Wander through the complex of glass vaulted arcades of the Galeries Saint Hubert, a fascinating array of shops and restaurants off the Rue de I'Ecuyer; then past the Theatre de la Monnaie back to the realm of 20th century Brussels the main shopping streets, Boulevard Anspach and Rue Neuve. The Cathedral Saint Michel is worth a visit too. The choir of this imposing Gothic edifice dates back to 1226; the nave and chapter are from the 14th and 15th centuries, and the chapels were added later.
The two towers, designed by Jan van Ruysbroeck, echo his soaring masterpiece on the Town Hall, while inside, in the diffuse light of the fine stained glass windows, is the Chapeau du Saint Sacrament. This artistic gem was built in 1540 to commemorate a miracle now acknowledged as false and unjust by the archbishopric. The legend is that in 1370 some Jews stole the sacraments and on Good Friday they stabbed them in ritual defilement, whereupon blood spurted from the sacrament's wounds. Accused of this crime, four Jewish families were burned at the stake in Brussels (hatred of the Jews was rife at this time). In spite of the loathing that motivated their construction and the gruesome facts that surround them, the tapestries and stained glass windows are magnificent pieces of artistry.
Le Sablon Brussels Belgium
South of the Grand Place lies an elegant and peaceful relic of pre19th-century Brussels, the Sablon area. Around the Place du Grand Sablon nestle antique shops and chic restaurants, while on the other side of the church of Notre Dame du Sablon, the Square du Petit Sablon is a welcome garden retreat in which to sit and muse upon the Sablon of days gone by. The 19thcentury bronze inhabitants of the square include the great martyrs of Belgium, Counts Egmont and Hoorn (who were executed for their part in the resistance movement against Spain), as well as forty eight little statues representing the medieval guilds, each identifiable by the item he is clutching.
The church itself, which took a hundred years to build, is a masterpiece of the 15th and 16th centuries and worth savouring in its own right, rather than for any particular treasures inside. However, don't miss the charming statue of the patron saint of huntsmen, St. Hubert, accompanied by a stag with a hanging Christ between its horns. This stands just beyond the porch; there is also a beautiful Baroque pulpit inside the church.
Les Marolles To the north and west of Le Sablon is the working class area of the Maroues, whose street names indicate the types of crafts once practised therefore instance, Rue des Orfevres (goldsmiths) and des Chaisiers (chair makers). The streets themselves are always fascinating places In which to watch the vigour of daily goings on in the district, and to try to identify the hotchpotch of languages Flemish, French, Spanish, with Italian, German and Hebrew thrown in that make up the rich dialect of the inhabitants.
This is the area where the great populist painter Pieter Breughel lived and died. His home was probably no. 132, rue Haute, a fine gabled house which often holds exhibitions of Breughel's paintings. His marble mausoleum is just up the road, in the Gothic church of Notre Dame de la Chapeau. Wandering southwards, you cannot fail to come across the enormous hulk of the Palais de Justice, the biggest building erected in the 19th century; the bombastic epitome of Belgium's golden age of expansionism. Down the Rue de la Regence is the Place Royale with the Musees Royaux des Beaux Arts the homes of III some of the Low Countries most stunning and valuable art treasures.
The Musee d'Art Ancien contains pieces dating up to the end of the 18th century, and began life in 1799 as a depository for everything the French couldn't carry back to Paris. Much was retrieved from France after Waterloo, and there are now around 1200 paintings, mostly from the great Flemish schools. The celebrated names represented there include Roger van de Weyden (1399-1464), Dirk Bouts (c. 1415-75) and Hieronymus Bosch (c. 1450-1516), whose Crucifixion is a relatively modest and conventional work compared with his usual macabre style. There is a fine collection of Pieter Breughel's work, including The Fall of Icarus, while Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640) occupies a whole gallery.
The morbidly fascinating imagination of Ribera mayor may not be characteristic of the 16thcentury Spanish occupiers one hopes not, looking at his Apollo Flaying Marsyas. Apollo has discarded his lyre and is calmly and gracefully skinning Marsyas alive.
The Modern Art Museum Brussels
The Musee d'Art Moderne holds exhibitions of 19th and 20th-century art in rotation. Regularly on show are such masters as Felicien Rops, Rene Magritte and Paul Delvaux, each taking a potshot at the bourgeoisie in characteristically satiric or surreal fashion. There are also a number of fine French painters. Brussels' other museums span a wide range of interests those whose fancy lightly turns to other civilizations and cultures should not miss the astonishing panorama of ancient and modern arts on show in the Musees Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire in the Parc du Cinquantenaire.
Music lovers should make time for the Musee Instrumental on the Rue de la Regence, which contains rare European instruments dating back to the 16th century, and some weird and wonderful pieces from China, Java, Sumatra and Mexico. Further out of the city, the House of Erasmus in the borough of Anderlecht is a charming and tranquil combination of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It houses a fascinating museum of the philosopher's career. Also in Anderlecht is the Beguinage, a 16th-century nunnery where eight nuns lived and worked at the budding lace industry.
Parks in Brussels and Belgium car hire
You will find yourself spoilt for choice, as far as parks in Brussels are concerned. The Parc de Bruxelles lies in the centre of the city, an elegant area of fountains, and Baroque and Rococo statues. The botanic gardens of the Domaine Royal de Laeken are a delight in spring and summer, and the royal greenhouses are beautifully illuminated at night during May. But the favourite of the inhabitants of Brussels is the Bois de la Cambre at the far end of the Avenue Louise, merely the municipal tip of the gigantic Foret de Soignes, which extends across the southeastern corner of Brussels.
The Bois offers boating lakes, tearooms, restaurants in a setting of regal beech trees; the perfect place to rest after a hard day's pavement pounding.
Day trips from Brussels Belgium
There are a number of easy day trips from Brussels: Waterloo is closest, only 12 Y2 miles (20 km.) south. Slightly further afield are Antwerp, 29 miles (46 km.) north, and Ghent, about 37 miles (60 km.) away. Bruges is 31 miles (49 km.) west of Ghent but is also highly recommended, and from there Os tend and the coastal resorts are easily accessible.
Antwerp Belgium
Antwerp is now a thriving and animated port. Port tours leave from the Steen, the castle on the right bank of the River Schelde. The town was the 113 home of Peter Paul Rubens during his heyday. The Cathedral, well worth a visit for its Rubens masterpieces alone, also boasts a majestic open stonework steeple 400 feet (122 m.) high. Groenplaats, south of the cathedral and at one time its cemetery, is now a colourful square edged by openair cafes, with a central statue of Rubens. And Rubens' house itself, at Rubensstraat 911, is an unexpectedly sumptuous affair - clear evidence of the painter's success.
For a fascinating glimpse into Antwerp's golden agethe 16th century visit the PlantinMoretus Museum (Vrijdagmarkt 22), where Christopher Plantin lived and set up his great printing press. The whole place presents a most informative history of books, printing and the evolution of handwriting. The omnipresent Rubens may be enjoyed at the Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten, which has a firstclass collection of Flemish art. Antwerp also has marvellous Zoological Gardens and a couple of lovely parks, Nachtegalen and Middelheimthe latter with an open-air sculpture museum which includes pieces by Rodin and Henry Moore.
Ghent Belgium
Ghent should be appreciated for the first time from the middle of the Saint Michielsbrug (St. Michael's Bridge), a splendid vantage point from which to study the city. The magnificent Gothic and Renaissance merchants' houses lie on Graslei (Grass Quay) to the right and Koornlei (Corn Quay) to the left of the bridge works of art in colour, form and detail. Also visible from the bridge, to the north, is the Gravensteen, the 9th to 12th century castle of the counts of Flanders, which has a dubious collection of sickeningly imaginative instruments of torture.
The other castle, Geraard de Duivelsteen, in Bauwens square, dates from the 13th century and has an equally nasty reputation. Back towards St. Michael's Bridge is the 15th century LakenhaUe (Drapers' Hall) with its great belfry, the architectural evidence of Ghent's ancient wealth. The multilingual sight and sound show in the huge hall sets the historical scene very well.
The Museum voor Schone Kunsten houses two of Hieronymus Bosch's best known surreal paintings Saint Jerome and The Bearing of The Cross. Not to be missed in Brussels is the Museum van Oudheden, housed in the medieval Abbey of Bijloke. It is a haven of tranquility, far removed from the bloody history of the torture chambers in the old castles.
Eating Out in Belgium
When it comes to matters gastronomic the Belgians do nothing by halves their reputation for sturdy appetites is nourished on the enormous portions and generous second helpings found in most restaurants; and quality is certainly not sacrificed to quantity. The stock caricature of the ruddy cheeked Belgian munching stoically through an unvarying diet of mussels and chips is, of course, far from accurate but fresh North Sea mussels steamed in a seasoned broth, and crisp, succulent pommes frites are delectable everyday fare. To make the most of the robust flavour of Brussels keep an eye open for such specialities as beer soup, delicious oysters from Zeeland, or potjesvlees, a cold veal, pork and rabbit pate, to start your meal.
Main course delicacies include anguille au vertbaby eel with shredded herbs. Waterzooi is not to be missed a fish stew with herbs, leeks and cream. A good variation on the theme is the Brussels version using chicken instead of fish. Beef casseroled in beer ( carbonnade); hare or rabbit served with prunes (lievre or lapin a lafiamande); boiled goose and a variety of powerful wine soaked game dishes involving venison (chevreuil), pheasant (faisan) or hareall should be sampled, though the richness of Belgian food makes a strong stomach a useful acquisition.
The figure conscious must be staunch indeed to bypass Belgian desserts waffles (gaujies) warm from the street stalls; apple pancake (crepe aux pommes); larle au sucre (sugar tart) for the really sweet toothed, or the famous spec loos, king and queen shaped gingerbreads.
Drinks in Belgium
Brewing is an art form for the Belgians, and there are a variety of beers to be savoured, preferably from the small scale breweries which still thrive. Kriek, for instance, is flavoured with cherries during fermentation; and while most beers are of the lager type, the strong dark malt Trappiste is brewed around Antwerp. liS Spirits and liqueurs are not sold in bars, so to sample Peguet, the local slightly sweet gin, you must visit a cafe labelled as a private club (cercle prive) and sign a membership form, or order it with a meal at a restaurant.
Shopping in Belgium
Everything you ever needed is on display in this shop window of the world at a price. The enormous international selection of goods and the cosmopolitan clientele make Brussels an expensive place to shop, and it's often hard to pick up authentic Brussels memorabilia when searching for mementos and presents.
The best value goods are Belgium's own products. The Belgians are masters of lace and tapestry making. Much is machine produced nowadays but a little detective work will often yield exquisite handmade results. Try the Sablon antique dealers for tapestry. Glassware, crystal and pewter are all crafted in Belgium; fine leather goods are a speciality of Brussels itself; and of course for those who have the wherewithal the city still revels in its reputation as a centre for good jewellery. All these products can be found in the chic boutiques of the Avenue Louise, as well as their more popular neighbours at the Marolles and the department stores of Rue Neuve and Boulevard Adolphe Max.
But it is more rewarding for many people to pick up antique or secondhand versions, by browsing in the antique shops of the Sablon or haggling over prices in the flea markets of the Marolles. Indeed the markets are a joy not to be missed flowers every day; the Sunday bird market in the Grand Place; antiques and books at the weekend the Place du Grand Sablon; the Midi market at the Gare du Midi on Sunday mornings.
No chocophile can pass by the chance to partake of Brussels' expensive but exquisite pralines, some of the finest and smoothest filled chocolates in the world. The arrays of mouth watering biscuits such as spicy spec loos always go down exceedingly well and extremely quickly as presents. In fact, from a nation as conscious of the wellbeing of stomach and taste buds as the Belgians, nothing could be more appropriate than a selection of their delicious comestibles for the folks back home.
posted by The Car Hire Guy at
08:49
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