Things to do and places to go in Lanzarote
Lanzarote is a startling island, representing the triumph of civilization over a hostile environment. Its pock marked, lunar like surface is dotted with over 300 volcanoes, yet onions, potatoes, tomatoes, melons and grapes all spring in abundance from the black ash. The daily scene of Lanzaroten
os (or Conejeros as they are sometimes called) toiling successfully in such an apparently desolate
landscape warms the heart.
It is not only in the fields that the island is succeeding. Newer to the tourist scene than either Gran Canaria or Tenerife, Lanzarote seems to have learned from the excesses of its sister islands. Here, small is beautiful and harmony with the environment is the philosophy.
Southern Lanzarote
Arrecife, the point of arrival for most visitors, unfortunately sets a very poor example to the island and it is probably as well that most people head straight out of it. This principal port and latter day capital is a characterless place with just two saving graces - the Castillo de San Gabriel and the Castillo de San Jose.
The 16th century Castillo de San Gabriel, situated on an islet close to the centre of town, houses a small museum of no great standing. But it is worth the walk, across the small drawbridge and over the lagoon, onto the small island from where the castle used to deter pirates.
Follow the coast road for a couple of miles and, just past the fishing port, the Castillo de San Jose is a far more interesting proposition. Built in the 18th century, this well preserved fortress now houses Cesar Manrique's small but impressive International Museum of Contemporary Art, which includes works by Picasso and Mire. There is also a fine restaurant with panoramic sea views.
The island's major resort is Puerto del Carmen. Its long golden beach stretches for several miles and comfortably accommodates its visitors. The sea is calm and ideal for famiies. Restaurants, bars and shops line the Avenida de las Playas in Lanzarote's one outbreak of mass commercialism. Yet Spanish bars and restaurants can still be found on 'the strip', and though there is a healthy nightlife scene the people in the apartments a block or so back from the beach may well be oblivious to it.
The old town just west of the beach has a charming small harbour area with traditional bars and restaurants. On the hill above it the Montana Tropical, a modern complex of shops, bars and restaurants, provides good family entertainment day and night. Flamenco dancers, performing
parrots, and folklore and handicraft displays all find a stage here.
The road west leads through the beautifully tended village of Yaiza to the rather more earthy Salinas de Janubio (salt flats at Janubio). On a bright day the dazzling white of the drying salt set against the azure blue of the sea and the black volcanic soil can produce an impressive natural work of art. There is even a mirador restaurant overlooking the flats. A little further north are two more natural spectacles. Los Hervideros is a
section of rocky coast where the crashing waves break ferociously against the cliffs and sea caves. You must visit on a very blustery day to appreciate it fully.
EI Golfo, by contrast, is a placid, emerald green lagoon set beneath a cliffside which resembles a gigantic petrified tidal wave just about to break. This is actually the inner rim of a volcanic cone, half of which has disappeared beneath the sea. The strata, colours and manic whirls are a fascinating SIght. Note that El Golfo is not apparent from the roadside. Park your car on the rough ledge, just off the main road on the left as you begin the descent into the village of El Golfo (renowned for the quality of its fish restaurants), and follow the rough footpath over the cliff.
Marvellous Manrique
Cesar Manrique is Lanzarote's greatest living artist, designer, landscaper, conservationist and all round cultural mandarin. Trained primarily in Madrid, he was born on the island in 1920, and there is hardly a visitor attraction of any worth there that does not bear his signature in some way. In his own words, his works are 'dreams that capture the sublime natural beauty
of Lanzarote', and he is constantly striving to ensure that tourist
developments are in harmony with the island's character. Simplicity is the key whitewashed walls, natural building materials, classical or local music, and local food and wine are the Manrique hallmarks. His own home Taro Tahiche at
Tahiche, 4 miles (7 km) due north of Arrecife, is now open to the public
The newly created resort of Playa Blanca on the south coast is host to a marina as well as the Fuerteventura ferry and hydrofoil. There is a good golden beach here, but as yet building work is far from complete in the resort. However, just a few miles east along unmade roads are the best sands on the island,
collectively known as the Papagayo (parrot) beaches. You will need a jeep, local directions (there are no signposts) and little else, as on Papagayo
naturism is the norm. There is a large, popular beach and several secluded
coves. The highlight of your trip to Lanzarote and the magical ingredient that makes this island so special is to be found in the Montaiias del Fuego (Mountains of Fire).
The Parque Nacional de Timanfaya which encompasses the mountains starts just north of Yaiza, and its boundary is marked by an impish devil motif. This desolate national park was formed largely over the course of 16 cataclysmic months during
1730 and 1731. Eleven viIlages were buried forever and many of the people left the island for Gran Canaria.
Just inside the malpais (volcanic badlands) of the park, camels take tourists on a short ride up and down a volcanic hill. Whether or not you think the ride
is worthwhile, the hubbub in the car park (which doubles as a 'camel park') when busy is not to be missed. Chaotic, colourful and quite exotic, it could almost
be a North African bazaar. Camels were once used as beasts of burden in the fields of Lanzarote but you will be very fortunate to see one these days.
Drive on and turn left at the small roundabout to the Montaiias del Fuego where you buy an admission ticket. Your introduction to the inner sanctum of the mountains leaves no doubt that at least one of these volcanoes is not dead, just sleeping. In fact the very one that you are standing on! A guide demonstrates this by pouring water down a tube into the earth, then beating a hasty retreat. Seconds later a geyser erupts, startling the diners in the adjacent restaurant. You can watch the food being cooked over an enormous barbecue which uses the volcano as its fuel - a source that is timeless, limitless and, of course, free.
Cars are not allowed any flllther into the park, and from here coach tour
(included in the admission price) depalt to explore the incredible landscape.Any badland that you may have seen up to this point have been a mere appetiser for the main course. The word lunar and alien are worked to exhaustion in attempts to describe the area and still scarceIy do justice to the dramatic scenery. Suffice to say that when the theme music to the film 2001 is played on the coach at the end of your tour, you will be convinced that you have just visited another world.
With rain so rare and underground water sources extremely limited you may
wonder how Lanzarote manages to survive as an agricultural island. The black topsoil is the secret, discovered by the farmers in their adversity. The porous volcanic particles that make up the topsoil are useless in themsel ves but act as a sponge for the moisture of the night air, obtaining water for the plants
and eliminating the need for rain. They are therefore piled on top of the crops and only need replacing around once every 20 years. The other Canary Islands also use this method.
The most impressive example of this type of farming is the vineyards around the valley of La Geria. Each vine is set in its own mini crater, protected from wind and excess sun by a low semi circular wall of lava stones (other crops are also protected in this manner). The horseshoe patterns thus formed stretch way up the mountains and apparently into infinity, producing an almost hypnotic
effect. Not only does it look good, the end product also tastes very good, and there are several bodegas In the Geria valley where you can sample the excellentlocal malvasia.
Lanzarote is the ideal location for holidaymakers who want to enjoy a quieter Canary Island resort with a host of great places to visit. Lanzarote tourism has increased massively since the early days of the island´s development, and last minute deals in Lanzarote and cheaper accommodation keep visitors flocking back for more.
os (or Conejeros as they are sometimes called) toiling successfully in such an apparently desolatelandscape warms the heart.
It is not only in the fields that the island is succeeding. Newer to the tourist scene than either Gran Canaria or Tenerife, Lanzarote seems to have learned from the excesses of its sister islands. Here, small is beautiful and harmony with the environment is the philosophy.
Southern Lanzarote
Arrecife, the point of arrival for most visitors, unfortunately sets a very poor example to the island and it is probably as well that most people head straight out of it. This principal port and latter day capital is a characterless place with just two saving graces - the Castillo de San Gabriel and the Castillo de San Jose.
The 16th century Castillo de San Gabriel, situated on an islet close to the centre of town, houses a small museum of no great standing. But it is worth the walk, across the small drawbridge and over the lagoon, onto the small island from where the castle used to deter pirates.
Follow the coast road for a couple of miles and, just past the fishing port, the Castillo de San Jose is a far more interesting proposition. Built in the 18th century, this well preserved fortress now houses Cesar Manrique's small but impressive International Museum of Contemporary Art, which includes works by Picasso and Mire. There is also a fine restaurant with panoramic sea views.
The island's major resort is Puerto del Carmen. Its long golden beach stretches for several miles and comfortably accommodates its visitors. The sea is calm and ideal for famiies. Restaurants, bars and shops line the Avenida de las Playas in Lanzarote's one outbreak of mass commercialism. Yet Spanish bars and restaurants can still be found on 'the strip', and though there is a healthy nightlife scene the people in the apartments a block or so back from the beach may well be oblivious to it.
The old town just west of the beach has a charming small harbour area with traditional bars and restaurants. On the hill above it the Montana Tropical, a modern complex of shops, bars and restaurants, provides good family entertainment day and night. Flamenco dancers, performing
parrots, and folklore and handicraft displays all find a stage here.
The road west leads through the beautifully tended village of Yaiza to the rather more earthy Salinas de Janubio (salt flats at Janubio). On a bright day the dazzling white of the drying salt set against the azure blue of the sea and the black volcanic soil can produce an impressive natural work of art. There is even a mirador restaurant overlooking the flats. A little further north are two more natural spectacles. Los Hervideros is a
section of rocky coast where the crashing waves break ferociously against the cliffs and sea caves. You must visit on a very blustery day to appreciate it fully.
EI Golfo, by contrast, is a placid, emerald green lagoon set beneath a cliffside which resembles a gigantic petrified tidal wave just about to break. This is actually the inner rim of a volcanic cone, half of which has disappeared beneath the sea. The strata, colours and manic whirls are a fascinating SIght. Note that El Golfo is not apparent from the roadside. Park your car on the rough ledge, just off the main road on the left as you begin the descent into the village of El Golfo (renowned for the quality of its fish restaurants), and follow the rough footpath over the cliff.
Marvellous Manrique
Cesar Manrique is Lanzarote's greatest living artist, designer, landscaper, conservationist and all round cultural mandarin. Trained primarily in Madrid, he was born on the island in 1920, and there is hardly a visitor attraction of any worth there that does not bear his signature in some way. In his own words, his works are 'dreams that capture the sublime natural beauty
of Lanzarote', and he is constantly striving to ensure that tourist
developments are in harmony with the island's character. Simplicity is the key whitewashed walls, natural building materials, classical or local music, and local food and wine are the Manrique hallmarks. His own home Taro Tahiche at
Tahiche, 4 miles (7 km) due north of Arrecife, is now open to the publicThe newly created resort of Playa Blanca on the south coast is host to a marina as well as the Fuerteventura ferry and hydrofoil. There is a good golden beach here, but as yet building work is far from complete in the resort. However, just a few miles east along unmade roads are the best sands on the island,
collectively known as the Papagayo (parrot) beaches. You will need a jeep, local directions (there are no signposts) and little else, as on Papagayo
naturism is the norm. There is a large, popular beach and several secluded
coves. The highlight of your trip to Lanzarote and the magical ingredient that makes this island so special is to be found in the Montaiias del Fuego (Mountains of Fire).
The Parque Nacional de Timanfaya which encompasses the mountains starts just north of Yaiza, and its boundary is marked by an impish devil motif. This desolate national park was formed largely over the course of 16 cataclysmic months during
1730 and 1731. Eleven viIlages were buried forever and many of the people left the island for Gran Canaria.
Just inside the malpais (volcanic badlands) of the park, camels take tourists on a short ride up and down a volcanic hill. Whether or not you think the ride
is worthwhile, the hubbub in the car park (which doubles as a 'camel park') when busy is not to be missed. Chaotic, colourful and quite exotic, it could almost
be a North African bazaar. Camels were once used as beasts of burden in the fields of Lanzarote but you will be very fortunate to see one these days.
Drive on and turn left at the small roundabout to the Montaiias del Fuego where you buy an admission ticket. Your introduction to the inner sanctum of the mountains leaves no doubt that at least one of these volcanoes is not dead, just sleeping. In fact the very one that you are standing on! A guide demonstrates this by pouring water down a tube into the earth, then beating a hasty retreat. Seconds later a geyser erupts, startling the diners in the adjacent restaurant. You can watch the food being cooked over an enormous barbecue which uses the volcano as its fuel - a source that is timeless, limitless and, of course, free.
Cars are not allowed any flllther into the park, and from here coach tour
(included in the admission price) depalt to explore the incredible landscape.Any badland that you may have seen up to this point have been a mere appetiser for the main course. The word lunar and alien are worked to exhaustion in attempts to describe the area and still scarceIy do justice to the dramatic scenery. Suffice to say that when the theme music to the film 2001 is played on the coach at the end of your tour, you will be convinced that you have just visited another world.
With rain so rare and underground water sources extremely limited you may
wonder how Lanzarote manages to survive as an agricultural island. The black topsoil is the secret, discovered by the farmers in their adversity. The porous volcanic particles that make up the topsoil are useless in themsel ves but act as a sponge for the moisture of the night air, obtaining water for the plants
and eliminating the need for rain. They are therefore piled on top of the crops and only need replacing around once every 20 years. The other Canary Islands also use this method.
The most impressive example of this type of farming is the vineyards around the valley of La Geria. Each vine is set in its own mini crater, protected from wind and excess sun by a low semi circular wall of lava stones (other crops are also protected in this manner). The horseshoe patterns thus formed stretch way up the mountains and apparently into infinity, producing an almost hypnotic
effect. Not only does it look good, the end product also tastes very good, and there are several bodegas In the Geria valley where you can sample the excellentlocal malvasia.
Lanzarote is the ideal location for holidaymakers who want to enjoy a quieter Canary Island resort with a host of great places to visit. Lanzarote tourism has increased massively since the early days of the island´s development, and last minute deals in Lanzarote and cheaper accommodation keep visitors flocking back for more.
Labels: Lanzarote, Marvellous Manrique

































